Newcastle Sampler

 

 

 

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Chiffon appliqué

Appliqué means attaching a shape in one fabric to a background of another fabric. There are lots of different ways of doing this, including the use of iron-on adhesive interfacings such as Bondaweb, but in this tips article we’ll look at using hand-stitched chiffon shapes to build up layers of colour, such as the urns on the 'Classical Urn' parasol.

Chiffon appliqué gives a light, ethereal effect, allowing the background fabric to show through. It can be used on very fine fabrics.

Materials and equipment

When working on a project using chiffon appliqué you will need:

• General sewing kit (needles, scissors, etc)
• Sewing hoop or frame
• A background fabric
• Sheer fabric such as chiffon or organza
• Tacking thread
• Sewing thread to match your fabrics
• Embroidery threads for embellishment (stranded cotton in a matching or contrasting colour is fine, or a metallic thread you can either sew with or for couching can work well)
• Sharp scissors with a good point.

Getting started

Once you’ve finalised your design:

• Transfer the design to your background fabric and mount the fabric in a frame or hoop, using a backing fabric if required.
• Cut a piece of chiffon or other sheer fabric larger than the shape to be appliquéd.
• Tack this to the background, over the shape.
• Using small stitches, back stitch around the outline of the shape, to attach the chiffon to the background.
• Very carefully, trim the excess chiffon with sharp pointed scissors. Leave a small margin round the shape, to allow for a small amount of fraying.
• Embellish with surface stitchery or beading if required.

Chiffon appliqué hints

If you’re using a fine fabric, you may wish to use a firmer fabric such as calico as a backing, depending on the effect you wish to achieve. A fine fabric on its own will not have the strength of cotton or linen, so take care when stretching it in a hoop or frame.

Layers of chiffon can be built up in this way, to give a deeper colour. This works well over part of the design, to give contrast and depth.

Use a plain sewing thread to stitch the shape if it’s to be covered over later. If it’s to be left plain, use an embroidery thread, such as stranded cotton. A variegated thread can give an interesting effect.

Stitching over the back stitching can be used to neaten the shape. Chain stitch in a metallic thread or a toning or contrasting stranded cotton can work very well, as can couching.