Features
Chiffon appliqué
Appliqué means attaching a shape in one fabric to a background of another fabric. There are lots of different ways of doing this, including the use of iron-on adhesive interfacings such as Bondaweb, but in this tips article we’ll look at using hand-stitched chiffon shapes to build up layers of colour, such as the urns on the 'Classical Urn' parasol.
Chiffon appliqué gives a light, ethereal effect, allowing the background fabric to show through. It can be used on very fine fabrics.
Materials and equipment
When working on a project using chiffon appliqué you will need:
- General sewing kit (needles, scissors, etc)
- Sewing hoop or frame
- A background fabric
- Sheer fabric such as chiffon or organza
- Tacking thread
- Sewing thread to match your fabrics
- Embroidery threads for embellishment (stranded cotton in a matching or contrasting colour is fine, or a metallic thread you can either sew with or for couching can work well)
- Sharp scissors with a good point.
Getting started
Once you’ve finalised your design:
- Transfer the design to your background fabric and mount the fabric in a frame or hoop, using a backing fabric if required.
- Cut a piece of chiffon or other sheer fabric larger than the shape to be appliquéd.
- Tack this to the background, over the shape.
- Using small stitches, back stitch around the outline of the shape, to attach the chiffon to the background.
- Very carefully, trim the excess chiffon with sharp pointed scissors. Leave a small margin round the shape, to allow for a small amount of fraying.
- Embellish with surface stitchery or beading if required.
Chiffon appliqué hints
If you’re using a fine fabric, you may wish to use a firmer fabric such as calico as a backing, depending on the effect you wish to achieve. A fine fabric on its own will not have the strength of cotton or linen, so take care when stretching it in a hoop or frame.
Layers of chiffon can be built up in this way, to give a deeper colour. This works well over part of the design, to give contrast and depth.
Use a plain sewing thread to stitch the shape if it’s to be covered over later. If it’s to be left plain, use an embroidery thread, such as stranded cotton. A variegated thread can give an interesting effect.
Stitching over the back stitching can be used to neaten the shape. Chain stitch in a metallic thread or a toning or contrasting stranded cotton can work very well, as can couching.


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